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How to Replace Rear Brakes 06-13 Mazda 3 – Tin tức của mẫu xe Mazda mới cập nhật.
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#Replace #Rear #Brakes #Mazda.
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I swear, no other videos mention the bleeder screws and then doing gravity bleeds. SO glad I watched this.
What is the bar hanging down on it that’s why I’m here
8:30 didn't she say turn it counterclockwise than she turned it clockwise
where does the funky spray paint job come ine. and the beeder scew. umm ya you need to still put the caliper piston back. ugh… patt2…
What kind of clocks are u using?
8:33 funniest counter clockwise to me
At 4:00 when them clips end break into the caliber do i need to replace the caliber?
Damn that’s rusted as fudge omg
I ordered a front and rear brake kit from 1A auto. The rear brake pads I received in the kit did not have the "cooling line" cut in the middle of the pad or the chamfer cuts at the ends of the pads. They were just one flat piece of pad. But even the pictures on the website 1A auto site showed these features on the pad. Why didn't I receive those pads?
A very complete video. I have never heard of breaking into the brake fluid system when replacing pads. The pistons push back without that and push the fluid back up to the master cylinder. No need to refill or risk introducing air into the system. Also that much anti seize grease on the face of the hub will be thrown on to the rotor at high speed causing a loss in braking efficiency and ruining the disc pads you have just replaced.
What a PIA those anti rattle clips are. One fell out after a few days and the other was so corroded it had to be broken off and a new hole drilled. Tired of screwing with them, so used JB Weld to around the holes. Probably have to replace calipers next brake job cause clips are permanent. In the mean time, they aren't going to fall out. Actually the clips made this my least favorite brake job.
Hi Sue,
Good clear informative instruction…thanks! One observation though, I note there is no disassembly of the E brake, Does that not even need attention in rear pad replacement?
Cheers K
Does it matter if you put the brake pad with the clip on top on the outer side of the rotor (Opposite what was shown)? I don't understand why one side only has a clip and the other pad doesn't.
Guys, I can't get the rotor off. Help. 😳
Holy Rust!!!
I used your video to TRY to replace my calipers. There's no way in hell you screwed the piston back in that easily with needle nose pliers without pressure. It would have been NICE to know there is a tool you can RENT specifically for this job instead of fighting it trying to get it compressed and twisted in. Your shop probably even HAS THEMMMMM. and it turns CLOCKWISE. Not counterclockwise. If you turn it COUNTERCLOCKWISE it comes out and is not easy to get back in. K THANKS.
I tend to tell people to you 6 point closed ends or line wrenches to refrain from stripping the soft bleeder
Odd that on my Mazda those caliper pin rubber bushings were in poor order. So bad that on one of them there was zero chance of getting the pin back through. And the others were pretty sticky. $23 cdn for new bushings, I think, is worth it.
turn clockwise to rotate the piston back in, pretty simply..
you don't need to hold the pedal down when opening the bleeding valve? I just tried your method and the pedal is still going half way down
Overall good video but a few things I noticed:
1. As eddie gee mentioned, you rotated the piston clockwise but state in the video to go counter-clockwise.
(Surprised you don't use the correct tool for pressing the piston in and offer it on 1A auto site).
2. When installing the pads, didn't clean the friction material.
3. Didn't specify in the pad with the anti-rattle goes inner/outer.
4. Also mentioned below, take the time to make sure the parking brake mechanism is working properly (adjust accordingly).
So I just bought a rear only ceramic brake kit for a Mazda 3 after watching this video…and it was $64. Just seems low, and am just curious to the quality of product I may have bought? Anyone have any feedback on the product?
I did this, and now the brakes are dragging and the car wont move…
When putting brakes back together I always hand tighten a lug on the stud after I put rotor on to hold it in place.
Do you have to loosen the bleeder screw to press this piston back in or can I just remove cap off the master?
The only question that I have is, where did the owner of the mazda got the mud guards????
22 pounds not 44 woman
Now i know why i have all this rattling. This has to be one of the worst brake designs ever.
"loosen the lugnuts with the weight of the car on the tire"
spins tire because the car is already on the lift
Little tip for all you diy garage mechanics if you take a lug nut and screw it on one of the studs then it’ll keep the rotor from wanting to wiggle around while doing your brake job
Possibly the clearest, simplest, straight-to-the-pointyest how-to auto repair video ever made.
17:32 Hahahahaha you are the best Sue!
Very detail instruction. Thank you so much. Please continue to keep this video in YOUTUBE for future use.
What's it mean when the piston doesn't go in, but it still turns with pliers? Seized piston and whole new caliper needed? I even tried with c clamp but didn't work.